General Tips

Too late to plant?

It is too late in April to plant bare root trees sold. You can plant the fruit sold in containers, it will just be vigilant about watering in the summer.

Too late to prune?

Except in very harsh climate, it’s actually a little late. The recovery of vegetation is there, the sap has taken a heavy traffic: it’s time to create more cuts.

Mulching

A thick mulch around the trees can limit the amount of grass, and keeps the roots of young trees in a cool place.

Staking

Young trees, especially those conducted in rod, need to be staked to resist wind. Do not plant a stake at the foot: the risk is not zero damage to a large root. Instead, press the shaft against a guardian angle.

Strip of glue

Install or check the condition of the tapes fixed bugs ( strip of glue ) arranged at 1m on each fruit tree trunk. This trap perfect nonpolluting is very effective (against aphids, etc.), provided they are placed early enough in the season.

Observe flowering!

A good harvest is above all a beautiful bloom. If 5-10% of flowers produce a fruit, the fruit will suffice! To do this:

• the presence of pollinating insects is necessary, including bees
• fruit trees closer to each other (this is the principle of orchards), especially in the case of trees require cross pollination .
• Especially: no insecticide spraying during this key period!

No …

… the “total treatment”! How these products can they still be sold? Their principle is an insult to common sense: we do not know what the tree suffers (deprivation, parasitic, disease …), but “do not worry: we have the miracle cure!” For which we do we take?

Stone fruits

Appearance of gum

Watch on the trunk and branches the flow of gum (the sticky paste that appears on the bark). This disease may be indicative of different problems:

• poor adaptation of the tree to the ground
• nutritional imbalance
• poor health

To remedy this:

• initially, scrape gum, remove the diseased parts and replace protective cap with a wound healing sealant
• to avoid further occurred, clean the foot of the tree often overrun with grass. Take 2 times a year the contributions of compost , you enfouierez by a slight clawing. Finally, make the treatment of winter , taking care to remove dead branches and mummified fruits.

Peach leaf curl

The treatment against peach leaf curl should be performed at bud break.

A natural insecticide

In organic farming, was used as a natural insecticide rotenone. Only useful with aphids very pervasive in the early season, this product is now banned from sale because toxic.

Pome fruit

Scab

Pear scab

The scab attacks all vegetative parts, leaves, branches, fruit. Treat preventively, when not in bloom, with products based on copper.

Late frosts

A late frost can be devastating. If their size permits, protect espaliers with a veil of winter.

To fruit

The codling moth is a moth that lays its eggs in April on young fruit, when night temperatures reach 14 ° C. Pheromone traps are cardboard boxes that trap stuck males. This biological control is effective for a small orchard. 3 diffusers for 100m ² advantageously replace insecticides.

Promote the sunshine

What is a reflex for tomatoes also applies to the orchard. The sun being rarer in September, it is important that the benefit of fruit each ray. Do not hesitate to remove a few leaves that generated the sunny fruit. In moderation, of course. Particularly recommended for grapes from the vine.

Bagging

This practice is gradually lost and that’s a shame. It permits to harvest fruit beautiful, free of any trace caused by weather or pests.

If you have bagged some fruit, open pockets 2 good weeks before harvest, to allow them to brown. However, leave the bag around the fruit the first 2 days to avoid a too sudden exposure to sunlight.

Picking

Do not wait until the fruits fall: they “chew” in reaching the ground, which upsets their preservation.

Pick a time to cool of the day, avoiding direct sunlight.

Enter the fruit with one hand and made them a quarter turn: they must come without forcing. Start with the fruit on the periphery of the tree: better presentations, they ripen early. If all fruits “are” not, do not force it and spread the harvest over several days.

Note: the tail must remain on the fruit for good conservation.

Treatments to provide

Coryneum, blister and monilia are entering in the fall of leaves. Watch it on trees and stone, when about half of the foliage is gone, preventively spray a fungicide ( Bordeaux mixture , for example). The first treatment will be reinforced by a second spray in the middle of winter, when the last leaves are gone.

Enjoy your stay in the orchard to monitor bark and branches. Cottony masses can report aphids lanigenes; of “blisters” on the branches waxy invasion of mealybugs.

Future plantings

It was in November that are planted in October and that sets the stage. In September, start thinking about the future of your orchard:

• replacement of aging trees?
• new varieties? why?
• Crop improvement by adjusting the cross-fertilization (see pollination of apple and cherry pollination )
• determining the locations

If you have determined a location, do not hesitate to cover the ground there (piles of straw or simply old boxes): the grass will disappear in a few weeks work easier when digging the planting hole …

A tree with a thousand virtues

Native to western Asia, Prunus dulcis stems from the Rosaceae family. It has been cultivated for over 6,000 years in Iran. This deciduous tree can reach an average height of 10 meters high and has a nice life because it can live over 100 years. The flowers appear in late winter on bare branches, follow the green velvety fruit containing the famous almond consumed by humans as is, or dried in baking, a concentrated energy.
The kernel allows to overcome the lack of animal protein in a strict vegetarian diet, like all dried fruit , it avoids the “pump stroke” of the late morning.
The buds are a wonderful eaten fresh serum of youth for the elderly, and the oil extracted from the kernel has proven itself in dermatology and cosmetology. It is excellent for treating skin conditions and soften dry skin. Applied during pregnancy, it helps to prevent stretch marks if unsightly.

Cultivation advice

Exposure

Almond tree in bloom

The almond places like sunny and warm. It can withstand temperatures slightly negative when properly installed, but growing area of ??choice remains the Mediterranean, also the fruit may be more random.

Ground

Plant your almond tree in autumn or winter before the sap rise in well prepared soil and deep. Poor soils, sandy suit him very well even though they are slightly calcareous.

Spray

This tree is resistant to drought once established, however, watering must be regular in the first three years, until the roots can be installed correctly, then it will be virtually no need watering except in periods of prolonged drought.

Size

The size will be made in January to remove dead wood and branches that intersect, so the sun can penetrate better in the center of the tree. Shorten if necessary the longest branches in 3 eyes always cut above a bud facing out.
Warning of heavy frosts can damage flowers and reduce production considerably.

Harvest

The fresh almonds are harvested in May / June, when he will have to wait until September or October period when the fruit opens when dry, revealing almonds consumed in dried fruit.

Multiplication

The almond tree is propagated by sowing in autumn under glass or greenhouse to protect from frost.
The cuttings may also be practiced: choose a semi-woody stem in summer and install it in a pot with the substrate will comprise half of garden soil and half sand, and keep in the shade and remember to baste often. The cuttings should be wintered during the cold period. For the more seasoned, grafting and budding are also good ways of multiplication that will ensure fruiting earlier.

In brief

• Exposure: sun
• Soil: drained
• Vegetation: Perennial
• Hardiness: not less than -5 °
• Diseases and Pests: Caterpillars , aphids , armillary, blister, lead.

Species and varieties

• Prunus dulcis “Ferragnès”: late-flowering variety of interesting north of the Loire, self sterile, large bore fruit with the soft.
• Prunus dulcis “ferraduel” late blooming, self-sterile, high-quality taste.
• Prunus dulcis “Lauranne” Port slightly drooping; self fertile.
• Prunus dulcis amara: attention, it’s very toxic bitter almond, but used in the composition of certain drugs.

What fruit trees?

All fruit trees are not suitable for growing in pots. The berry-producing shrubs are best suited, but you can also choose trees of larger size (if opting for a dwarf or a dwarfing rootstock, ask when buying).

• Apple trees behave quite well in pots, with a columnar shape, especially since the compact varieties of apple have been created specifically for this mode of culture.
• Pears often reach a size larger than the apple, making culture column, pot, a little more tricky (especially if your space is reduced). It is sometimes better to Palisser (palmette or espalier ), which saves space and better penetration of the sun.
• The fig tree is content with a reduced volume of soil, and can also be installed in a pot.
• Plum , peach and cherry are also suitable pot life, but they often need to be fenced, against a wall or fence (preferably with a southern exposure).
• Think also of citrus (orange, clementine, tangerine , lemon, kumquat ), which bear fruit in pots easily, provided you have the opportunity to put them under shelter in the fall when the first cold until May (ideally, in a bright room with a night temperature of 7 to 12 ° C).

Pollination

It is important to choose self-fertile varieties, especially if your dwarf fruit is isolated. Most berries are self-fertilize without problem, but the apple trees, pear trees, plum trees and some cherry trees are almost all moderately self-fertile and should have cross-pollinated with other fruit trees to bear fruit in abundance . If your goal is to harvest many fruits, have at least two fruit one beside the other, or buy a plant with multiple grafts on a single rootstock.

Choose a healthy and vigorous plant

For the purchase of the tree, you can choose between two presentations: bare root or balled. For deciduous species (that is to say almost all fruit, except citrus), bare-root trees are only found in late autumn or winter, during the rest of the tree. The trees are sold balled available all year.

If the roots are bare, make sure the root system is healthy and well developed. If the roots are balled, make sure the roots are healthy and not confined in the container. The substrate should be moist and weed free. In all cases, the side branches should be spaced evenly distributed. Finally, check that the chosen variety is already grafted onto a rootstock (this is usually the case, but better be sure!).

Implementation Step by Step

1. Before making the planting, water the seedlings well.

2. Choose your container: an ordinary pot, 38 to 45 cm in diameter, may be sufficient, at least at the time of planting.

3. After confirming that the drainage holes are drilled, place the bottom of the pot a thin bed of expanded clay beads or shards of pottery. Drainage and will correctemePêcher nainnt.

4. Cover with felt to prevent the garden soil is driven through the drainage holes when watering.

5. Put a little soil -based garden soil moist on the felt. Do not add fertilizer if the soil is poor, otherwise you may get a beautiful foliage but little fruit.

6. Place the seedling in the soil, keeping it straight, then fill the clay pot, up to about 2.5 cm from the edge of the pot to facilitate watering. Tamp without excess around the plant.

7. Water again, then add some soil if necessary. Keep the soil moist until the recovery.

8. Place the pot outdoors in a sunny spot.

9. Stake if you opted for the columnar habit. Otherwise, the pale young plant.

Maintenance

Fruit trees in pots, like any other potted plants, quickly dehydrate: water regularly in summer. In winter, have a much lighter hand, because the tree has very few needs. Similarly, the soil in the pot running out fast enough, we must fertilize regularly (for example, a fertilizer just before flowering, not too rich in nitrogen, and mulching in the spring, with a well-decomposed manure). Yellowing of the foliage will alert you to a possible deficiency of the substrate. For the same reasons, repot at least one winter in two, in a slightly larger pot. If this is not possible, practice at least a surfacing (replace a few inches of topsoil from the garden soil cool).

For the size , note that the formatting will require 2, 3 or 4 years depending on the variety. It will be necessary to prune annually in the early years, to obtain a balanced form. It will then maintain that form.

After each flowering, remember to practice a thinning , to avoid too many fruits do not weaken or break the tree branches. Finally, it will do more than monitor the occurrence of possible pests and diseases .

Sometimes we lack space to plant fruit trees in the ground. If you only have a small garden, balcony or terrace, do not give much to the pleasure of harvesting your own fruit: the dwarf fruit accommodate themselves very well to pot culture.

What fruit trees?

All fruit trees are not suitable for growing in pots. The berry-producing shrubs are best suited, but you can also choose trees of larger size (if opting for a dwarf or a dwarfing rootstock, ask when buying).

• Apple trees behave quite well in pots, with a columnar shape, especially since the compact varieties of apple have been created specifically for this mode of culture.
• Pears often reach a size larger than the apple, making culture column, pot, a little more tricky (especially if your space is reduced). It is sometimes better to Palisser (palmette or espalier ), which saves space and better penetration of the sun.
• The fig tree is content with a reduced volume of soil, and can also be installed in a pot.
• Plum , peach and cherry are also suitable pot life, but they often need to be fenced, against a wall or fence (preferably with a southern exposure).
• Think also of citrus (orange, clementine, tangerine , lemon, kumquat ), which bear fruit in pots easily, provided you have the opportunity to put them under shelter in the fall when the first cold until May (ideally, in a bright room with a night temperature of 7 to 12 ° C).
  

Pollination

It is important to choose self-fertile varieties, especially if your dwarf fruit is isolated. Most berries are self-fertilize without problem, but the apple trees, pear trees, plum trees and some cherry trees are almost all moderately self-fertile and should have cross-pollinated with other fruit trees to bear fruit in abundance . If your goal is to harvest many fruits, have at least two fruit one beside the other, or buy a plant with multiple grafts on a single rootstock.

Choose a healthy and vigorous plant

For the purchase of the tree, you can choose between two presentations: bare root or balled. For deciduous species (that is to say almost all fruit, except citrus), bare-root trees are only found in late autumn or winter, during the rest of the tree. The trees are sold balled available all year.


If the roots are bare, make sure the root system is healthy and well developed. If the roots are balled, make sure the roots are healthy and not confined in the container. The substrate should be moist and weed free. In all cases, the side branches should be spaced evenly distributed. Finally, check that the chosen variety is already grafted onto a rootstock (this is usually the case, but better be sure!).

Implementation Step by Step

1. Before making the planting, water the seedlings well.

2. Choose your container: an ordinary pot, 38 to 45 cm in diameter, may be sufficient, at least at the time of planting.

3. After confirming that the drainage holes are drilled, place the bottom of the pot a thin bed of expanded clay beads or shards of pottery. Drainage and will correctemePêcher nainnt.

4. Cover with felt to prevent the garden soil is driven through the drainage holes when watering.

5. Put a little soil -based garden soil moist on the felt. Do not add fertilizer if the soil is poor, otherwise you may get a beautiful foliage but little fruit.

6. Place the seedling in the soil, keeping it straight, then fill the clay pot, up to about 2.5 cm from the edge of the pot to facilitate watering. Tamp without excess around the plant.

7. Water again, then add some soil if necessary. Keep the soil moist until the recovery.

8. Place the pot outdoors in a sunny spot.

9. Stake if you opted for the columnar habit. Otherwise, the pale young plant.

Maintenance

Fruit trees in pots, like any other potted plants, quickly dehydrate: water regularly in summer. In winter, have a much lighter hand, because the tree has very few needs. Similarly, the soil in the pot running out fast enough, we must fertilize regularly (for example, a fertilizer just before flowering, not too rich in nitrogen, and mulching in the spring, with a well-decomposed manure). Yellowing of the foliage will alert you to a possible deficiency of the substrate. For the same reasons, repot at least one winter in two, in a slightly larger pot. If this is not possible, practice at least a surfacing (replace a few inches of topsoil from the garden soil cool).

For the size , note that the formatting will require 2, 3 or 4 years depending on the variety. It will be necessary to prune annually in the early years, to obtain a balanced form. It will then maintain that form.

After each flowering, remember to practice a thinning , to avoid too many fruits do not weaken or break the tree branches. Finally, it will do more than monitor the occurrence of possible pests and diseases .

Ground

Eggplant (Solanum melongena) needs a rich soil and good drainage. In the garden, bury an organic fertilizer in the winter. Again, the plant grows well in pots, it is possible to recycle especially for this use black plastic containers that contain shrubs purchased in nurseries.

Location

The ideal situation is hot and sunny garden. Because of its tropical origin, we advise a glasshouse gardeners north of the Loire and any cool, damp climate.

Purchase

Buy nursery plants in pots of varying size (depending on your patience!). Smaller, the price is right, and rooting generally more reliable. But the flowers will wait more …

Culture: from seedlings or plants in pots

Sow in pots between January and March depending on your location. Place 2 to 3 seeds per cup, or store after lifting the most robust plant. If this step of patience you off, it is of course possible to buy in garden buckets ready to be planted between March and May .


When the seedlings are 12 to 15cm (they usually have five leaves), put in the ground to their final location (garden or pot). The reaction is generally between April and June, when frosts are no longer to be feared.

Size

Remove any side shoots, and pinch (trim) above the second flower. Keep three or four lateral branches that grow then, and pinch them in turn when they are 2 flowers, just above a leaf. This will limit the harvest to about 8 fruits, which is optimal for a normal foot.

Maintenance

Water regularly but not too much (risk of deterioration). Potted plants should be fed weekly with a liquid fertilizer rich in potassium (K high) .

Harvest

The harvest takes place about 5 months after sowing. Pick fruit well colored, smooth skin and firm, by cutting the stem with secateurs (they are hooked!). Enjoy …

A bitter taste?

Do not wait too long before harvesting eggplant. Once the fruit is brown shades, it hardens and its flesh is a characteristic bitter taste. Harvest should be done at the opening of the calyx when the fruit is still purple.

The apricot is a fruit tree drought resistant and easy enough to live: maintenance is minimal, and the size is optional. The apricot harvest is highly dependent on the weather, but in the worst case, you at least enjoyed a very decorative flowers in early spring.

An apricot tree in the north of the Loire?

The apricot (Prunus armeniaca) is a small tree naturally spread to the port, rarely exceeding 6 meters in height and belonging to the Rosaceae family. Its lifespan is usually 40 to 45 years, and hopefully raise apricots 3 or 4 years after planting.

Native to Central Asia, it is adapted to hot climates, including the Mediterranean climate. However, it may withstand very low temperatures in winter (down to -25 ° C or -30 ° C for some varieties), and can be grown in certain areas north of the Loire. The apricot harvest will be more random, however, because the tree flowering period is very sensitive to spring frosts. In regions where the climate is unfavorable, we take care to choose a late flowering variety.

Cultivation of apricots

Planting

The planting of the apricot preferably occurs at the beginning of winter, during periods of dormancy. It is nevertheless possible to install the spring, but care should be taken to the water regularly in summer, to allow proper recovery. If you want to plant several apricot (or other fruit trees) side by side, allow a spacing of at least 1.5 meters between plants.

Ground

For soil, the main criterion is the drainage: the apricot does not support excessive moisture and thrives in a well drained substrate. Ordinary soils, neutral or calcareous suit him, with a clear preference for light and sandy (no heavy soils).

Exposure

Like most fruit trees, apricot needs sun. If you live in an area where winters are quite cold, place it out of the wind, for example against a wall facing south.

Multiplication

Most apricots are reproduced by grafting (like sleeping with eye patch), in summer, on a rootstock that can be a plum, apricot one franc a franc or a peach almond franc. The choice of rootstock is particularly important because it allows to adapt the apricot (graft) to the soil, climate (early), or shape that is desired for the tree (low forms , or higher forms, on-stemmed or half-shaft).

However, some old varieties can be propagated by seed kernel (in the spring, at 20 ° C): this is the case for the varieties ‘Alberge’ or ‘In Holland’.

Flowering, pollination and harvest

Flowering (pinkish white flowers) takes place between February and April, according to region and variety, before the leaves appear. It is one of the first fruit trees to flower: the early flowering makes it particularly sensitive to weather. Spring frost has an impact on the flowers (destroyed at -2 ° C) and the young fruits at the stage of fruit set, and wet weather at flowering time overnight in pollination.


In theory, the apricot is self-fertile, that is to say that it pollinates itself. However, for some varieties, the presence of another tree compatible, and flowering at the same time, is favorable for good pollination, and therefore a good harvest. The apricots ripen in summer (June-August).

Maximize the harvest: maintenance

The apricot crop yield random: it can vary from 0 to 200 kg of fruit per tree. Several factors are: climate, fertilization, tree age, disease and parasites, and size.

For the age of the tree, we can not do much, as to climate, we can reduce risk by choosing a variety adapted to the geographical area. However, we can intervene on fertilization, pruning, and the fight against pests: the maintenance of the apricot is pretty simple, but some actions are favorable for good fruiting.

Fertilization and watering

To maximize fruiting, early spring, scratch or the ground around the tree and spread the compost or rotted manure. You can repeat the operation in the fall. In terms of watering , an apricot tree planted for several years does not normally need to be watered unless specifically extended drought.

Size of the apricot

The apricot is generally strong enough to be grown rod “full of wind”, that is to say, not trellised. The size is not mandatory: it is simply recommended for beautiful and many fruits. Fruiting can be improved by a palmette in size or espalier : in this case, the tree will be trellised against a wall (especially in cold climates) or a fence.

In all cases, the apricot tree can not stand the severe pruning, like most stone fruit.

• In the early years of the tree, practice size (moderate) training for well charpenter the tree.
• When apricots are well trained, operate each year, in February, a fruiting size: remove dead wood, shorten the longest branches keeping the silhouette of the tree (leave at least three eyes and cut above a bud facing outward), remove branches that cross or those growing toward the center of the tree (thinning favoring the penetration of sunlight and fruiting).
• Once the young fruits appear, delete in part if they are numerous (the tree will struggle to bring to maturity the fruit too abundant, it is better to sacrifice some of their training from the benefit of others, which will largest and most beautiful).
• A second size can also be done in autumn after the leaves fall off and freeze period: slightly reduce the branches giving fruit and remove branches damaged or broken.

Always prune with a sharp pruning shears (for a clean cut), and thoroughly cleaned (to prevent the spread of disease). After each size, take the precaution to protect pruning wounds (for larger branches) with a putty healing, because the apricot is susceptible to injury.

Pests and diseases

The apricot is subject to the same pests and diseases as those affecting the fish, particularly the peach leaf curl . Fungal diseases ( powdery mildew , moniliasis ) can be prevented by treatment with Bordeaux mixture in spring. A monitor also: the canker blight, plum pox (caused by a virus), the fruit fly …

Another common problem on the apricot tree: the flow of gum. It is not a disease in itself, the presence of gum (thick, sticky substance) on the bark of the tree is rather a sign of poor fit of the tree with the ground of excess moisture, injury, an attack by an insect or a fungus, a nutritional imbalance …

Forget about seeding, rarely practiced because it gives poor results.

You can do two ways to install the artichokes in the garden:

• collected in early spring suckers (called “eyelets”) on stock plants that have overwintered in the ground
• eyecups or buy “all prepared”, sold as many other plants in pots. Perfect for a start.

As the artichoke is a perennial, it will benefit from one year to another and give generously for 3 years. Then the degenerate feet: the “pros” so renew 1/3 of planting each year for regular harvests …

To do this, spread sheets, choose only the finest releases carrying small roots and cut net. You can then either directly replant each eyepiece, or do raciner quietly in your own bucket. In all cases, it is necessary to remove the rotten parts and cut ends of leaves: one speaks of dressing.

Soil and location

The artichoke like healthy soil, well drained and rather rich.

As it rapidly exhausts the soil, incorporate before planting and then every fall a well-rotted manure, possibly supplemented with a complete fertilizer high in nitrogen in the spring.

Caution! The artichoke is a “hottie”. Within weeks, the little plane will reach 1.50 m in width and height … Its evergreen spreads and overshadows everything that grows near!

Space your plants so well. If you need more space in the garden, why not plant a foot in the ornamental garden? Cut leaves of a beautiful silvery green will not go unnoticed!

Planting

In a loose soil, dig holes and plant the eyecups in pairs, staggered at a distance of 1m in all directions. Tamp the soil at the base. Dig a small bowl to concentrate irrigation water. Water thoroughly.


Subsequently, watch watering and hoe regularly.

Harvest

The artichoke produce some heads in the first year. These are the “flowers” (still in the “buttons”!) That we consume.

Harvesting is done with a sharp knife, before the scales begin to move away to reveal the flower (beautiful, incidentally).

With the approach of winter …

The artichoke can freeze in winter. Fold in November stems at ground level and shorten the larger leaves. Buttez feet with soil without covering the heart, and protect it with a good mulch .

• 1
  All chickens were born last spring are now ready to lay eggs. At first, the eggs may be small but after a month or so are the right size and their ideal weight is 60 grams.
• 2
  Remember that the hens can go outside even if it snows, but in space who was not available they must form puddles of water and mud as they can cause the formation of infectious diseases.
  
• 3
  For the power you need to feed him a mixture of feed for poultry, protein, corn and bran. You also need to add salt to the mixture of about 20 grams per 10 pounds of product.
• 4
  Hens need vitamins and then you can give him some herbs or vegetable scraps. If the climate is harsh for the chickens is not a problem as long as you give it enough water and food they can survive well.
• 5
  The broilers are well developed that you can make in the pasture even if the climate is harsh. The only thing you have to do is to check that there are no grazing in wet or muddy areas, especially near the troughs.
• 6
  Check that the chickens grow up in an environment where there are good conditions to grow, first there must be many perches for the night and then you have to create a hole in the pasture dry sand, so that animals can use it for defense of parasites.
• 7
  For the power you need to mix equal parts of protein from grains and corn. In November, spread the mixture leaving the feeders empty in the morning to hunt them during grazing. Pets should always have herbs and vegetable scraps.




• 8
  In December, three, four weeks before the animals are uccis let them eat as much food since morning. The same thing applies to broilers if the climate is harsh is not a problem as long as they provide abundant food and water.
• 9
  The pharaoh in winter are left free, do not worry about low temperatures but the only thing you have to avoid that animals are in the air currents, especially in the shelter that is used for the night.
• 10
  For the power supply you have to give two parts of the feed and proteins and a part of grain type maize. In November, only fill the feeders in the early afternoon to eat animals during grazing. While in the last weeks of life can be given plenty of food.
• 11
  To ensure a good development for turkeys positaoi you arrange the food in the hospital and also a pasture, and for distributed power feed, protein and whole grains such as corn.
• 12
  Throughout the month of November only spread the mixture in half a day to feed them during grazing. As for the Ducks can graze throughout the month of November. In the month of December spread within the shelter of a layer of clean straw and dry to make them feel comfortable and warm.
• 13
  Check that there are no currents in the admission of air, and for feeding food distributed only half gironata. While four to five weeks before the animals are destined for slaughter distributed food at will.
• 14
  Geese are water birds, but like to use dry, so be sure to deliver plenty of dry straw in the shelter. The geese may graze in the winter months.
• 15
  And as always, for you have given geese in November but check that the feed is consumed by the next morning, so that geese leave the pasture to find food.
• 16
  The important thing you need to do to give him grass and vegetable scraps. For pigeons instead they started to lay the grapes must always check how it goes cove. Keep in mind that the first egg is laid in the late afternoon or during the night.
• 17
  The second egg is laid after about 48 hours and that the hatching begins only after the deposition of the second egg. Sometimes two eggs can produce a single calf, born one or the two may die after a few days.
• 18
  In this case it is better to take the baby to another couple. Also protect the pigeon during cold weather to avoid killing the small birds. For the power given grain made from corn, pea, wheat and sorghum.
• 19
  The pigeons that the large genioti can often be affected by trichomoniasis, a disease that is transmitted to the children. The adults have been killed and lean, while in small plaques in the oral cavity appears yellow pus. If you notice these sinotmi you should contact your veterinarian.
• 20
  The rabbits begin to breed and the couplings are preceded by courtship. Remember that if after pairing the female with the male is left for 10-15 minutes fertility improves.
• 21
  In the breeding cages feeding facilities must always be supplied, because the lack of water during childbirth can facilitate cannibalism. As regards the power distributed feed for rabbits with proteins.
• 22
  Animals should always have fresh or dried fodder. In addition to always maintain a clean environment where the animals live in the early days of the birth of rabbits you have to spray the teats with milk enzymes so small that they take while breastfeeding.

Estimate the time you have to create
a small farm, on the construction of the barn and
are planning, the grassy space that you have, the power, the life of a hen and a rooster

How long do you have?

A chicken coop is cleaned regularly. They are not demanding animals,
but they must be given to drink and eat all day. It takes
1 hour per day and that is impossible to leave them alone, is in case, remember to provide assistance to a person while there is time.
This is important to be able to leave with peace of mind.

Think of the good neighbor.

Think of the noise caused by animals that may impede your neighbors.
Rear animals of the farmyard close to habitations, that is often
the origin of quarrels and judgments, the rooster is displeasing to some.

Regulations.

Contact your local council to find out the exact rules on the establishment of a Poultry Flock in your area. The building permit the prohibition of breeding in some homes.

What breed of chickens to choose?

For the consumption of eggs it is best to raise small breeds also known as “hens Races”:
Males can weigh up to 2.5kg and 2kg females. They are great layers, hardy and early, ie they cover themselves with feathers and quickly reaches sexual maturity very early (5 months). Given their light weight they are well adapted to flight.

There should be a fence two meters high. Most of these races do not incubate. They produce white shelled eggs.
May have Siter, Leghorn, the Bresse, the Ardennes, the Gallic golden, Gournay, the Hamburg, Padua …

There are also two races known as late call’d “Mixed Breeds” or “average Races”
They come from crossbreeding heavy and light breeds, they have intermediate characteristics and provide eggs as well as meat.
Sexual maturity is also intermediate (6.7 months). They are well adapted for breeding and rearing closed. They are used to produce hybrids in the production of eggs and meat.
One little quote: The Amrocks, The Bielefelder, the Arrow, the Langshan, the Sulmtaler, the Vorwerk, the Australorp, Bresse-Gallic, the Cuckoo Rennes, the neck-naked, Dorking, of Faversham, the Gatinaise The Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island, the Sussex, the Wyandotte, the Marans .. The Bourbonnais, The New Hampshire, north of Grand fighter …
But attention is not so profitable over time. If possible it is better to raise a race for laying eggs and breed in the flesh. The results will be much more rewarding. It ‘s just my opinion, that is my experience that I have been noticing. The advantage is that they are less attracted to the theft.

For meat breeds also called “heavy breeds”
They grow rapidly, are massive and heavy,
The cock may weigh 5.5 kg and 4 kg chicken. They reach maturity very late (8 months) ‘s races are not worn on the flight and no one not need a very high fence. 1.50m high enough. As they were selected for meat production, chickens are not suitable for egg production. Parcontre they willingly convent.
One little quote: Brahma, Cochin-China, the Giant Jersey, The Géline of Touraine, the Houdan, the Orpington, the Crèvecoeur, the Dorking, the Faversham, the blue of Holland, The Langshan, Sussex .. .